No, there's no way a fixture can be used as a junction box. Likewise, people ask, can a light fixture be used as a junction box? Often known as a junction box, this metal or plastic box includes a cover to protect the wiring within and protect you from the wiring. Similarly, do all electrical connections have to be in a box? Electrical codes generally require that all electrical devices, and the wiring connections to those devices, must be enclosed in an approved electrical box. Like any electrical box, it should be installed so that the edge of the opening is flush with the wall.
#Junction box in attic insulation install
You should install the box with the opening facing out from the wall so all the wires inside are accessible. You'll need a junction box if you can't make the connections inside an existing electrical box. So, my personal opinion, use the insulation that will retain the most heat in the room- you'll love the sauna that much more if it gets you hot in the winter.Considering this, do I really need a junction box? You probably have worse materials that are more exposed such as green 2x4s to frame/support your benches, and the stove which will smell up the room like crazy for the first 10 firings while burning off the paint :) As far as I understand, it's a difference between just foil and foil with air pocketsģ. The foil will be behind a layer of 1" thick cedar.Ģ. I am too usually looking out for things like that, however, look at it this way:ġ. Although I haven't yet had a chance to use it in the dead of winter, as we were still building, we did use it in the early spring, with temp's being around 30F and were able to get the hot room above 200F.Īs far as off gassing, I assume you're talking about health concerns. However, my goal was to build the sauna to be as warm as possible for the most enjoyment. Thank you for following the blog! Since I haven't dealt with the regular foil, I can't really compare the two. The max temp this insulation can take is 180F per the manufacturer. Make sure, however, that the foil sits at least half of the stud away Right on the fly as you’re hanging the foil. When running the foil over the chimney supportīox, simply get right up to it and cut the size of the support box in the foil Goes, we generally tried to put a staple every foot on the walls and slightly Then, we cut the foil at the opposite wall to ceiling intersection. Intersects with the ceiling, we stapled the bubble foil and continue to staple So, starting at the corner where one wall Ourįirst thought was to go parallel to the trusses, but we quickly realized that Once the walls are covered up, it’s on to the ceiling. That way it can breath and not create a moisture sandwich.Īgain, this is one of those topics widely debated online-but that’s the Our wall that divides the hot room from theĬhanging room, only gets the foil insulation on the hot room side. There was no stapling surface to attach it to, we ended up trimming it off. Initially we thought we could use that crease-but, because The 2 nd section abutted to the top of the first section and This first section only covered the bottom half of We covered with a marker so we could cut them out. Also, we marked all the outlets and junction boxes When cedar goes over this, we don’t want it to Well creased with enough slack in the foil. We made absolutely sure that we had each corner The roll on the floor and stapled it to the studs carefully unwinding the rollĪs we went around the room. I ordered a big roll of the foil bubble wrap online. Once I was somewhat satisfied, I nailed in place with a bread nailer. The hole, assembled my home made (slightly crooked) vent and stuck it in the I made the opening bigger without marking it first, cut out Made that mistake, and having planned to finish insulating that night, I ended To pass through the hole I just made-not abut to it. The cedar box that I needed to build which would make up the vent opening, had What I realized then is my plan was wrong. Using a small drill bit-I made 4 pilot holes for theĬonnecting the drilled holes and using a multi-tool sawed through the sheathingĪnd siding to make the vent hole. Outside, found the placement on the siding where I wanted to be and measured The first and 2 nd studs between which my vent would be. Inside the hot room, I measured a rough length from the side of the building to That it’s in the middle of the siding piece and doesn’t cross 2 of them. I thought I had a good idea untilįirst, because I have lap siding, I needed to make sure I make the hole such I’ve laid awake aĬouple of times trying to think this through.